Travelogue Chardham : Gangotri

Barkot – Uttarkashi – 12 May 2012

We started from Barkot to Uttarkashi which is the base to go to Gangotri. The distance is about 100 kms from Barkot. However the distance would be covered only in about 6 hours of drive.

We stopped at one of the Sadhu’s hermitage in between where Siva Lingam and Hanuman were given prominence. In one of the rooms, there was an Agni Kundam in which he was doing a homam during this time. The dhuni was kept alive seemingly in an unbroken continuous way. Obviously he was a Natha Sampradaya ascetic.

 

Cave Descent

 From there we carried on to Gupta Prakateswar Temple. This place as told to us is slowly gaining in popularity due to the uniquely marvelous way of natural formation. There was a cave here inside which there was a formation of a stone with upto 5 identifiable Sivalingams on it due to the flow of water.

Cave Inside

 The flow of water also formed some interesting stalagmite formations one of which were looking like Adi Sesha hood, from which water was dripping into a submerged Siva Lingam formation. Being a cave it was difficult for many people to go in at once and so it took a long time in the queue to actually have a peep into the cave and see this. 

Cave Inside

The water was pleasant, soothing and at once energizing. The wonderful experience / feeling when one sees this and comes out were recounted by every one who entered the place. The Siva is gupta meaning secretive as well as prakata meaning visible thus the name Gupta Prakateswar.

Outside the Cave

 We had planned for a small time frame here, however providence had it that we had to remain there more than three hours since one of our buses hit a car on the way and the others waited for them to reach.

Uttar Kashi Temple

Kashi Viswanath temple is probably the best known temple at Uttar Kashi. The Sivalingam is unique as it leans to the left as seen when we enter through the main door. The Lingam is said to be swayambhu.

Soumya Kashi Vishwanth - Uttar Kashi

 
The same compound has the Shakti shrine.

 

Trishul Top

 One important attraction here is that there is a metal trident – a huge one which is kept in the temple. This is quite tall from the visible base till its top. It is also reputed that the trident base is also as deep beneath the earth surface as much as it is visible outside. The magnificence of the trident is such that one can imagine Lord Siva himself only being able to use this. The trishul is also revered as a form of Shakti which is obvious in the base and the upper part which has the three pointed agram (border) and the axe formation just beneath this.

Trishul Base

It is also said that the same cannot be moved by a single person (obviously), however if one applies slight pressure with one of your fingers, it vibrates. We did not try this and no one else was also seen trying this around. It is also said that there was a major earthquake in 1991. The damage was huge locally and all buildings around were destroyed. However the only standing structures remained intact were this Trishul and probably the temple precincts. There are eyewitnesses to the happenings of this incident where the Trident connected in sparks to the lightning which also had an inverted trident form and the landslide which stopped just at the door of the main temple gates.

   

Uttar Kashi Temple

 Uttara Kashi is also known as Soumya Kashi. There is a famous stotram by Swami Tapovanam – Soumya Kasheesha Stotram in praise of Lord Kashi Vishwanath here. There is a story about this temple connected to Lord Parasurama. He had beheaded his mother Renuka Devi on the orders of his father – Jamadagni Maharshi. Later she was revived by the Maharshi at the request of Lord Parasurama. Subsequent to this, Parasurama was asked to do Tapas at this location, to ward off the effects of his action eventhough they were done at his father’s orders. The temple of Kasi Viswanath was originally said to have been constructed / founded by Parasurama during this time. There was a temple dedicated to Parasurama at Uttarkashi, however we could not visit any other temples than the main one that of Kashi Viswanath as mentioned above.

Some very important places we missed out due to time factor (or should I say divine plan) is Tapovan Ashram and Nachiketa Tal. Swami Tapovan is the guru of Swami Chinmayananda and is one of the most venerated sages in the 1900s. Nachiketa is famous for having direct conversations with Lord Yama, learns Brahma Vidya from him and the details are recorded in the Kathopanishad for the benefit of all mankind. There is a temple dedicated to Annapoorna Devi, and a place for the Sadhus as a colony. It is also said that Sage Uddalaka’s Aashram was in the adjoining forest area. Uddalaka Maharshi was the father of Sage Swethakethu and who’s Upadeshams on Tatvamasi is recorded in the Chandogyopanishad.

 We stayed at Uttar Kashi in a hotel which was just beside the flowing Ganges. The night was windy and gradually the temperature was dipping. After the long journey during the day, we were all longing to hit the bed at the earliest. Next day was the journey to Gangotri.

13 May 2012.

Ganga Naani

Early morning with prayers in our minds, we started off to Gangotri. The first stop was at a place called Ganga Naani. The uniqueness of this place is that there is a naturally occurring thermal spring here. It is known as Rishi Kund. Some also call it as Parasara Kund. There is a small temple dedicated to Sage Parasara adjacent to the Kund upon climbing some 7-8 steps.

Almost all of us had not taken morning bath for this trip as the plan was to have the dip here. There were separate enclosures for both men and women. Most of us did take the dip and was absolutely refreshed. Taken aback by the crowd, I and my father did not take a dip in there.

Gangotri

We reached the approach of Gangotri and understood that there were a lot of vehicles who had already reached there. We had to walk almost 2 km to reach the place further to where our buses were parked. This year the crowd was so much for the trips that it had been quite hectic for all the travel arrangers.

Bhageerathi

 

We went straight to the bathing ghat and walked slightly up the stream. A vacant area was chosen for bath and daily ablutions. Myself, my parents, Kunjamma and Chittappan were together during this time. I tried to enter the water first. Icy cold it was and certainly numbing especially if you are not used to such temperatures. Still managed to do the Sandhya Vandanam and take some half dips for taking bath. Also took water and poured over so that the body was fully soaked in the Gangajal coming at Bhagirathi. All of us took turns for doing the bath and did our prayers. The stones at this place were white and the water clear. The flow was rapid and the river was generally clean. 

Once done, we climbed back into the banks and saw the Bhagiratha Sila – still maintained. The story of Bhagiratha and the flow of Ganga through this place as Bhagirathi, are so well known that I am not recounting this here.

Bhageeratha Sila

Climbing the steps of the river banks, we went to the mandir of Ganga Devi. Huge crowds with haphazard queue made me, Father and Chittappan sit on the side after humbly praying to Devi from outside. Amma and Kunjamma ventured into the queue and managed their darshanam inside.

Ganga Devi Temple

 While we waited outside the temple we were reminded of the great Tapas done by Bhagiratha to bring Ganga through this place with the highest of spiritual vibrations. Once Bhagirathi joins the Alakananda at Deva Prayag, the present Ganga is seen in full strength.

Surya Kund

There is a place known as Soorya Kund and Gauri Kund where the water falls majestically. It is said that there are some aloukika lights seen during Brahma Muhurtam at this place. Rails are kept for people to watch this. However since our visit time was different, we couldn’t hope to see this. The view is spectacular and the reddish, white rocks are greatly polished by the flow of water. It is said that during winter when the water flow comes down and freezes here, a SivaLingam becomes visible. This is the place where Lord Siva supposedly received Ganga in his hair locks upon her descent to Bhumi. Arsha Bharatha Samskaram is so connected to the Mighty Ganga. Various pilgrim spots, Aashrams, spiritually uplifting places, other places of stunning natural beauty, continuity of life, towns and cities are in its banks. After the holy Saraswathy River, Ganga is the second most referred to in the Vedic literature.

 

From Gangotri we also collected some water in cans and returned back to the vehicles for our journey back to the Hotel for night stay. Even though the distance is only around 100kms, as explained before it took quite a bit of time for us to reach there and only by late evening we came back to the comfort of blankets in the Hotel.

Travelogue Chardham : Yamunotri

Sri Gurubhyo Namah

Sri Ganapathaye Namah, Sri Subrahmanyaya Namah

Sri Matre Namah, Om Nama: Sivaya

May 2012

My parents, Uncle and Aunty (Mother’s Sister – Kunjamma and Chittappan) had gone to a Chardham trip back in 2009. Due to heavy rains and land slides during that year, they were unable to finish the trip and had to come back after having darshanam only of Yamunotri. So when the trip was again called for by Venuji (who arranged the tour program), Amma had pulled up the team for the same. Ani Maman and Mami also were there for this trip and another relation of ours from Trivandrum were also present in the final list. I got my leave sanctioned some time in March and added myself and Malini also for the trip. As things turned out, Malini could not make it for the journey due to some personal reasons at home.

I had traveled directly from Hyderabad to reach Delhi whereas the full tour party had come directly from Kerala – most of them in train till Delhi and some by flight. I went to the Delhi Railway station and joined them. The tour group had two buses and one mini bus – a large contingent indeed – 60 of them.

We proceeded from Delhi on 9^th May afternoon to Haridwar where we were put up in a Hotel. The actual trip was to start from the next day. We all rested in the Hotel which was on the way from Haridwar to Rishikesh and were expected to be ready by early morning the next day.

10^th May 2012

Early morning we started off to Rishikesh which is basically the entrance point for the sacred Char Dham trip. We had to take a pass for carrying on with the trip which the drivers would arrange. During this time, we went around Rishikesh. 

Rishikesh

Lakshman Jhula & Ganga flowing underneath

This is one of the most popular pilgrim spots in India. The Lakshman Jhula is normally seen in all poster frames and naturally more pilgrims were present around this area. The Ganga could be seen in full flow under the bridge. On the other side of the bridge, there were some temples and a particular one, which normally captured in the Jhula photos, had representations of all the 12 Jyotirlinga Siva temples in a multi level building.

    

We also went to the Rama Jhula about 2 kms away from this location. Sivananda Ashram is located here. We went around the Ashram for some time, its temple, library and more importantly the Samadhi Peetham of Swami Sivananda. He was one of the more popular Spiritual persons during his time, who devoted his time for Learning, helping the sadhus and other people and being a medical practitioner himself, attending to people’s medical needs when the place did not have any modern facilities. His books are famous and are available at various places, which continue to be an inspiration to ardent spiritual seekers even now. His disciples who later formed the Bihar School of Yoga also have put up a great lineage in Spiritual Learning and Sadhana Maargam. Some of the books which have come out of these schools directly talk about the supreme Yoga Vidya and some important Yoga Sampradayams including Upasana Kramams and Bhakti Maargam.

Route to Barkot

We traveled through Dehra Dun and Mussorie on our onward journey to Barkot. The overnight stay before reaching Yamunotri – our fist Dhaam – was planned at Barkot. On the way we also saw The Swami Rama Tirtha Mission Ashram which is located at Kotal Gaon Rajpura, near Dehra Dun. However since this was not announced separately we couldn’t go inside the same. Saw the Ashram from outside as the road winds through its boundary wall, while the journey continued.

Even though the travel to Barkot was only about 225 kms, it took a lot of time to reach there. This trend continued for the entire journey, where we found that even though the distance looked small, the actual time to reach was always much more than normal. This is because of the nature of the Himalayan terrains. Some have sharp climbs where as some are comfortable plains. Some have narrow and dangerous roads where as some are comfortably wide. Some of the roads are well laid where as some others look like freshly laid with mud. With land slides, falling rocks and sudden gush of water making itself into a stream, the roads are always on a continuous mode of getting rebuilt.

Snowy peaks were seen here and there and this being the first sight of an actual snow covered mountain, the excitement was naturally visible among many of us. We reached Barkot hotel late into the evening. 

Snowy Peaks

Yamunotri (11^th May 2012)

The first of the Dhaams were to be visited today. As early as possible, we started for the Base for Yamunotri. This was about 30 kms away from Barkot. Upon reaching the base, the entire team had to choose between trekking, horses (basically mules / ponies), palkis (carried by four men) and dolis (carried singly in a basket, a person needs to sit cramped in it – ideal for kids, persons of small physical stature, and if required your luggages). Seeing the big team landing there, there was enough commotion among local agents to get the people for rides on all the options. Meanwhile those who were planning to go on foot started the trek straight away.

Myself, Amma and Kunjamma decided for the horses and it took a while when this was arranged for. We started our climb to the Yamunotri Dhaam with the boys controlling the horses (ponies) besides us.

To be simply put – it was difficult. The path was narrow and the crowd was unbelievable. “Jam Lag Gayaa Sahib. Thodi der ke liye Uthar ke Khade ho jaiye” – “There was jam due to the crowd. So please climb down the horse for some time until this is sorted” – The path which we could see for atleast a kilometer was stuck with people, carriages and horses, every thing being on a stand still. Such was the crowd that we also had difficulty in the journey even if we were on the horses. Every now and then we had to bow down due to the low hanging rocks, keep our legs tight and close to the horse’s body so that it did not get hit with other items or someone coming in the other direction. Due to the wet conditions, the horses were also slipping in between and we needed to be careful and vigilant while we sat on them.

After almost three hours of climbing the 6km trek, we finally reached the Yamunotri Dhaam. The entire place was full of people. The snowy peaks were allowing slight drizzle and cold winds in between. Most of us had sweaters / jackets on so that the cold breeze could be adjusted to. The approach area is also full of shops and merchants who try and get the maximum sales done during this time. I thought of having a dip at the hot spring which is said to have therapeutical and spiritual value thus soothing both body and mind. The place was swarming with people and it was difficult to enter the Kundam in that crowd. 

We decided against it. Then bowing near the springs and the bathing ghats built separately for men and women, we sprinkled some water on us and did our respects. The bathing ghats were covered with a roof – one for men and one for women. This rule was not specifically adhered to in the crowd when we went there. The water is nice and warm for anybody to get in and get absolutely refreshed. Once done we went and saw the “Surya Kund” which is the actual hot spring from which the hot water comes out and is let into the bathing ghats along with the Yamuna water. People put grains in small cloth pouches and show them close to the pond where this gets cooked quite fast!!! This is taken as ‘prasadam’ by the pilgrims. It is said that during Sri Adi Sankaracharya’s visit to the sacred spot, he understood the difficulty faced by his disciples to have a bath in the icy cold Yamuna water with its near freezing temperatures. Upon his ‘Mana: Sankalpam’ the Surya Kund manifested itself which has served as a boon for the world as a whole. In view of technical terms, the water could be hot due to the various tectonic faults and the outpouring of the internal heat from the earths’ immediate surface and may be due to the sulphur content etc. Which ever way we understand this phenomenon, the whole situation is so very fulfilling to the mind that the Lord’s manifestations are for the benefit to the mankind.

  

Yamunotri Dham

We entered the Devi Sannidhi at Yamunotri where the idol is kept and the Pooja is done. Naturally there was a big crowd there also and I was wondering how to see her Vigraham. Suddenly an opening came. Just outside the inner pathway, I saw that no particular crowd was there as people were thronging either to get into the inner sanctum or were having special poojas done with different pandits. We saw HER in full glory and noticed that her eyes were peculiarly piercing with wide open eyelids. Those who are well versed with the Antara Yoga Sampradayams may very well relate to the significance of this depiction.

Devi in her manifestation as Sakamabari and in form of Vrshti helps the Srishti, Sthithi and Laya of the manifested world which is her own Vibhuti –

‘Aham Vibhutya Bahubhuriha Roopairyadasthita’ Devi declares in Devi Mahatmyam (Durga Saptashathi) – I by manifold manifestations, stood here in many forms (Ch.10. Para 8).

Goddess Yamuna is Surya Putri. The water solidifies as ice in sub zero temperatures and gets collected on the mountain tops directly from the clouds, which is the optimum method of utilization of water directly from the ‘Prakriti’ and which also gives full Amrita like benefits. Though these methods of collecting ice directly from clouds were used by some previous generations, the same seems to be lost among the general public now. The water thus collected is enriched by the supreme qualities by exposure to the ‘Surya Deva Amrita Prakasam’. Due to the Sun’s rays and subsequent life force, the water slowly melts from these ice blocks, forms the stream and thus rivers are formed.

The Sapta Sindhus which are revered in the whole of Bharatavarsha – Ganga, Yamuna, Godavari, Saraswathi, Narmada, Sindhu and Kaveri are those which manifest in these forms in the best possible way – both in material ways and also for spiritual upliftments due to the subtle vibrations they carry. The special vibrations of these rivers is due to the special places which they come from carrying various vibrations of sages and saints, the special effects received at these places due to the Sun’s benevolent rays, the therapeutic and uplifting effects of the special flora and fauna around these places and of course by the divine plan. These rivers’ which descend into the places of man’s reach, is generally venerated by the saints since the purest of prana sakthi in its highly concentrated form are present at these locations due to the above reasons. It is of special importance to note that man is capable of getting the sustenance energy in its purest forms directly from Prakriti – which includes Sun’s rays, the Atmosphere, etc…

It is due to this importance, that the river origins are praised and sung as Devi Pratyaksha areas. I had always wondered why the rivers / their origins were given this importance by the great sages. Our great Rishis and sages are never wrong. Knowing this fully well, I was probably in a mind to accept this without properly understanding the meaning. However with Devi’s Anugraham, the real import presented itself directly for our inquisitive self, here.

We started our ride back to the foothills which was equally difficult as the climb. We needed to be so alert in maintaining balance on these horses that by the time we reached back our hands, shoulders, thigh muscles, and knees were aching. We reached back at the hotel for a well anticipated sleep and rest at Barkot.

Travelogue TN: Epilogue

Epilogue

One of the slokams read -

“Jananat Kamalalaye, Kasyantu maranam, mukti,
Darsnanat Abhrasadasi, smaranad Arunachale.....”

Bhagavan Ramana replied:

Yes. What is Jnananat Kamalalaye?*  Being born in the Heart!
(*Kamalalayam means Tiruvarur and also the Heart) 
What is Darsanad Abhrasadasi?*  Seeing the Seat of Consciousness! 
(* Abhrasadasi means seeing Seat of Nataraja in Chidamabram and also seeing the Seat.)
Kasyantu Maranam. What is it?  Kasi is the Light of Realiztion.
Dying in the light of realization is dying in Kasi!
Smaranad Arunachale. Remembering Arunachala, the Effulgence,
is to be assured of Liberation!

--------------------- Gurucharanou Samarpayami-----------------------------

Travelogue TN: Day 7 - Thiruvottriyur, Pattinathar Samadhi, Melur

4^th May Friday

Thiruvottriyur – Adi Pureeshwarar

We went to the temple early morning to have our darsanam at the temple and also at the Thyagaraja Sannidhi. We went into the temple and had the darsanam of the Siva Lingam and the Tyagaraja Sannidi. The temple is another of the famous paadal pettra Sthalams.

We saw the 27 Nakshatrams in the form of various Siva Lingams – a very unique feature of the temple. A person who is born under a particular star can have their special poojas / prayers done here in front of the Lingam for the particular star. Pancha Bhoota Lingams are also present just before the Gosala. It is also said that The Vayu Lingam is the place of Roma Rishi Samadhi – one of the great Maharishis in the great Indian Panorama of Sages.

The Sthalapuranam says that during one of the Pralayams, Brahma Deva did deep Tapas at this place before the commencement of the next Srishti cycles. Shiva rose from the Yoga-agni in a strange and indecipherable form. Flames of fire crackled and blazed from which emerged a chittirappalakai, a flat square drawing board like shape that formed a Shivalinga. Brahma prayed for the great waters to subside. Shiva ordained that this town be exempted from destruction. The Agni Kunta became the temple and Shiva resides here as agni or fire with his consort Darbanayagi Ammal who embodies Chit Shakthi. Thus the town which was exempted from deluge – ‘orutral’ – got the name Tiruvottriyur.

Another story is that King Mandata levied taxes for all places including Sivastalams. Surprisingly, when his orders inscribed in palm manuscripts arrived at Tiruvotriyur, an additional line appeared on them, apparently from nowhere. This line decreed that this township be exempted from the orders. The king enquired as to who had interpolated those words. No one seemed to have done it. The king after examination decided that it was not one of his own men who did it.  He rubbed and removed away the words from the palm script that sanctioned exemption and kept it locked. The next day, on examining the manuscripts, the same words had reappeared. King Mandata felt that Lord Shiva himself had chose Otriyur as ‘His Own Land’.

The king exempted the township from tax payment. Tiruvotriyur (‘the town exempted’ from tax payment) was thus created. In consonance with this episode, the moolavar in this temple is also called ‘Ezhuthariyum Peruman’. (‘He who chose to write’)

The temple is famous and is one of the paadal pettra Sthalam.

We went to the Devi Sannidhi – Vadivudai Amman – One of the Tri Sakthi Sthalams.

Devi here is also known as Gnaana Shakthi.

Iccha Shakthi Gnaana Shakti Kriya Shakti Swaroopini -

Three temples depict the famous three names –

Vadivudai Amman at Tiruvottriyur – Gnaana Shakthi

Tiruvudai Amman at Melur        - Iccha Shakthi &

Kodiyudai Amman at Tirumullaivayil – Kriya Shakthi.

As some abhishekams and morning poojas done there, the Sannidhi was closed at the time we went there. We waited and then it was opened – The divine beauty is un-explainable. We stood there oblivious to the surroundings for some time.

Before we proceeded to Melur to visit the Iccha Sakthi temple we went to Pattinathar Samadhi.

Pattinathar Samadhi 

The Samadhi is located about 1 km from the temple on the eastern side cutting through the road for lorry traffic. The temple has a direct entrance to the road now and the approach is given a small Gate showing the same.

Pattinathar is another of the great 18 Siddhars whose story is well documented and the details of the incident when he gets the palm leaf inscribed – ‘Kaathatra Oosiyum Vaarathu Kanum Kadaivazhikke’ (Not even an eyeless needle will accompany you in your final journey of life) is quite a famous quote in the Spiritual traditions in South India.

He asked some of the children playing near the beach to cover him in a pit and while they did this, he would playfully emerge outside immediately and walk towards them. The last time they did, he did not come out but was transformed into a Sivalingam. It is the very same Lingam which is seen and done Pooja upon.

Melur – Tiruvudai Amman – Iccha Sakthi

From Tiruvottriyur, we went to Melur which is on the route to Minjur and a very heavily industrialized area with huge Lorry traffic. When we reached the temple there was a marriage function going on at the Devi Sannidhanam. We actually walked in to the sound of welcoming Naadaswara Melam and did our full darsanam with the full orchestration on the backside. While we were having darsanam at the Devi Sannidhi the Melam also intensified as the taali muhurtham also was approaching.

The temple also has a hidden cave visible at the back side of the main sanctum sanctorum – Tirumanangeeswarar. The caves probably date back to the early Sangam ages and is said to connect the Tirumullaivayil Kshetram and was probably due to political reasons.

Back to our Rooms –

We wanted to go to the third Sakthi temple at Tirumullaivayil and also see the Rasa Lingam there. But then, ‘The Lord’ had other ideas as we got caught in a major traffic jam and had to wait in the road for about 2 hours. We didn’t have time on our side as we were going back to our places by evening and thus had to drop the plan.

Kameshwara and Kameshwari had been very kind enough and showered the good fortune for all of us to visit - Three of the Pancha bhootha lingams, one of the Saptha Vitanka Kshetrams, one of the Veeratta Kshetrams, one of the Pancha Sabha Kshetrams, one of the Saptha Sthanams, three of the Aadhara Sthalams, a host of the Paadal Petra Sthalams and some major Samadhi Sthalams. The wish of the Lord is the Order of any day for us and we bow to the ‘Apaara Karuna’ by which this entire Samarpanam played out itself.

Travelogue TN: Day 6 - Tiruvanmiyur, Pamban Samadhi

Chennai – Tiruvanmiyur

I and my parents went to Tiruvanmiyur Maruntheeswarar Kovil in the evening. It turned out to be Pradosham and the temple precincts were naturally crowded. There were a lot of activities at the temple. Some were singing, some group in meditation, some readying for Tevarams while some went on to a stage for a prabhashanam. Some were busy serving for Annadaanam while many were busy in the queue for receiving the same. We had our darsanam at the Siva Lingam and the Devi Sannidhi and came out.

Pamban Samadhi

From Tiruvanmiyur temple we went to the Samadhi shrine of Sri Pamban Swami. He was a sage who was a siddha purusha and the compound had one of his disciples’ Samadhi also. Also in the compound was a Muruka temple. But sadly we failed to enter the prakaaram.

Travelogue TN: Day 5 & 6 - Tiruvannamalai, Ramanashramam, Seshadri Samadhi

Tiruvannamalai

We reached the town at 2.00 pm. Our stay was arranged at the Samadhi of Seshadri Swamikal and was adjacent to Ramanashramam. Once checked in we had our lunch and rested awhile.

Arunachalam and Tiruvannamalai Koil

The details of Tiruvannamalai is so well known and Ramana Maharshi, one of the greatest exponents of Sudhha Buddha Mukta Swaroopam and Kevala Jnaana Ghana Nidhi and who is also considered as the 64^th Nayanar alongside the 63 great ones have lived there. Samadhi of Idaikkadar Siddhar – one of the 18 Maha Siddhar, is said to be here. Details of the place and the histories are also available for the same.

The Agni Kshetram, where Sage Arunagirinathar was saved by Lord Muruga when he wanted to end his life and gave the greatest Upadesham – “Chumma Iru”, the place where the Pataleswara Lingam is there where Sri Ramana Maharshi had spent a considerable time in tapas, where the body of Sri Arunagirinathar was interned at the back courtyard of the temple was majestically present and we were eagerly awaiting to go in. By about 4.30 we came near the temple. The plan was that a group of us was proceeding to do Girivalam after Darshanam at the temple, while some may stay back to either visit Virupaksha Guha or to be at Ramanashramam for the evening.

When we reached the temple back side, we found that the gate was opened. We all went in and before we even noticed was immediately adjacent to the main diety’s prakaaram. We went in and had a darsanam ‘atiseekhram’ that we felt as if he prepared the way for us. Normally when we enter the temple it takes time to reach the inner temple because of the vastness. The group who had planned for Girivalam had started off by this time. We were taken in by such a good feeling to have the boon of darsanam so quick and full to our minds without any crowd, my father recounted the story of Ramana Maharshi, when he came to the temple the first time, nobody was there including the Archakas and he went directly to the Lord and did ‘Aalinganam’ of the deity.

We also saw the deity of Muruka, remembered the story of Arunagirinathar, and also His songs which originally started with the first one – ‘Muthai Tharu Pathhi Thirunakai’.  We also spent some time near the Patalalinga where Ramana Maharshi did Tapas. We spent some more time at the temple after this and noticed a very pretty site where the evening sun’s rays had shown through the clouds as if rays of ‘Arul Kripa Kataksham’ were being showered. We remained at the temple until some light shower drizzled in that summer!!!

We also knew that there was some festivity during this time and the next day morning some special abhishekams were planned.

Once back from the temple and trying to come out of the back gate, we saw that the same was locked. When asked, one temple staffs who was there told that this is generally not opened during this time and is reserved for specific reasons. I told him that we came through that way, and he replied that this would not be opened now. We got our vehicles to come to the North Gopuram and then proceeded to Ramanasramam.

Ramanashramam

We stayed at the Ashramam till our minds were filled. Sat for some time at the Samadhi hall and the small room where he used to sit. We also did our pranaamams at his mother’s Samadhi and the room where he shed his body. We had food from the Ashramam as Prasaadam and then slowly retired to our rooms. We could not visit the Virupaksha guha due to the time and our tiredness also.

The next day also in the morning we came here and spent considerable time at the Samadhi and the bookstall. Malini was insistent on a particular book which has subsequently made an important change in her life.

3^rd May - Thursday

Adi Arunachalam and Giri Valam

We also went around the Arunachalam in the car as we were not in a position to take the arduous journey then. We also visited the Adi Arunachala Kshetram and mentally prayed at all the Eight Lingams while doing the Valam. ‘Arunachala Parvatam’ was looking like a Sri Meru when viewed from the South West side. That the Siva Agni Roopam itself solidified into the hill i.e. the Arunachalam is the reason why the saying is that ‘Arunachalam Smarana Mathrena Mukthi’ – the esoteric meaning to be found individually. Those who went the previous day on foot had finished the same and had come back by 11.00 pm with their hearts filled with joy and prayers.

Seshadri Samadhi

We stayed at the Seshadri Aashram just besides the Samadhi of the great person. Probably apart from Colachel at Sri Sivasankara Swamy Samadhi, I had not stayed overnight at any other Samadhis before. The compound had apart from his, many other great Saints whose bodies were interned there. Considering that Ramana Aashram was also practically the neighbouring compound, where equally number of Samadhis were there, and all the while immediately next to the Arunachala hill, I had a feeling of being resting in among the ever protecting hands of the Lord himself with great Saints watching and blessing us.

Spent some time at the Samadhi with my father and had a very nice feeling about it. Swamikal was among the first persons to identify Ramana Maharshi as a great person and used to protect him from street urchins who used to throw stones at him for fun. Swamikal also was considered a Siddha Purusha whose visit or any gesture was treasured by the people there. The first time I had visited Tiruvannamalai in 2001, I had asked my uncle who had taken us there about Seshadri Swamy, seeing his Samadhi there. I found that the Aashram looked similar as I had seen during 2001. Swamikal was also known as Kancheepuram Seshadri Swamikal as he originally hailed from there and he was involved in a lot of Ishwara Leelas as witnessed by some of the disciples of Ramana Maharshi has later said.

It was no wonder that Sri Ramana Maharshi had remained at the place where they interned the body of Swamikal until the Samadhi was ready in a marked respect from a Jnaani to a Jnaani.

Around 10.00 am we started our onward journey to Chennai for our return journeys.

After an otherwise uneventful journey we reached Chennai late afternoon. Saumya and kids dropped off near their home, Teacher and the team from Hyderabad was dropped at Chennai Railway Station – Ma’am, her Nephew Aditya, Lakshmi, her sister, their kids and mother, Vanaja Aunty, her husband and grand child. Gomathi Aunty got down at the Airport. My family stayed back at Chennai while Ma’am’s son Krishna went back to Tanjavur in the van.

Travelogue TN: Day 5 - Tiruvennainallur, Thirukkoyilur, Gnaanananda Tapovanam

2nd May Wednesday

First part of our trip was in Thanjavur and the second in Chidambaram.

We proceeded for the third part of our journey by next day morning. On the way we had a glimpse of the outer areas of the massive Neyveli Lignite Corporation and proceeded to Tiruvannamalai.

Our plan was to visit two places before reaching Tiruvannamalai – first Tiruvennainallur and second Tirukkoilur.

Tiruvennainallur

We reached Tiruvennainallur around 11.00 and went into the temple. The area was slightly difficult to find as our Saradhis were not clear about the same. The reach to the temple was also through some narrow routes than the main road.

Sunadarar as he was known, was about to have his marriage ceremonies started when the whole function was disrupted by an old brahmin. He claimed that Sundarar cannot enter into a marriage since he is has authority over Sundarar’s life as a master to a slave. Naturally a commotion happened and Sundarar also was extremely scathing in his attack to the oddly looking person who was spreading a beautiful ‘parimalam’ – fragrance inspite of his appearance. Sundarar addressed him as ‘Pittha’ and questioned– “What are you talking about? What proof do you have to come with such an allegation at the time of such an important function in my life which actually changes my life course? Are you mad?”

The old Brahmin said that he was from TiruVennainallur. Because of the ‘Tarkam’ which had happened due to this, everyone was taken to the Naattukoottam (Local panchayat) at the place.

The odd looking Brahmin, with vibhoothi on his body, Rudaksha around his neck and matted locks, showed the people around them and Sundarar a palm leaf where it was written by Sundarar’s grand father that he and his sons will be a slave – ‘adimai’ to this person. Some of the people who had gathered went to Sundarar’s house took another leaf where writings and signature of his grand father was there. The signatures matched!!!!. (Most of the systems in society which we are taught as modern day innovations in the last 2-3 centuries have been so prevalent as a system of life in India so long before…)

With the incredible unfolding of events, the Naattukoottam which had convened at the precincts of the temple of Tiruvennainallur got convinced that there was merit in this unique person’s demand and was finally declared that there was enough evidence for Sundarar to be a slave to him until he releases Sundarar of his slavery.

Thus hearing, the old brahmin asked Sundarar to accompany him and literally pulled him, at times dragging him along the way and the temple. Sundarar was absolutely crest fallen and entered the state of ‘no-thought’ as his experience was so shattering that it changed all that was around him. The moment he was pulled in by his “Master”, he lost all his mental ‘vikshepams’. ‘Mano Vrtti Layam’ happened and he went into the temple after his “Master”.

His “Master” walked straight into the ‘Garbha Grham’ which may have slightly surprised Sundarar to come out of his mental stillness. Sundarar saw him disappearing into the Siva Lingam there and was astonished to see this phenomenon. He tried to look into the sanctum santorum to actually see where his “Master” went and he did see HIM – Lord Siva gave him the darsanam with Parvathi at the place where Siva Lingam was kept. The sight of the Lord himself brought the memory of his previous births and the reason why he was born. His intellect was absolutely clear and Jnaana Amrutha Paanam was fully experienced by him then. Sundarar became a Jnaani at that moment.

Sundarar was asked to sing about his “Sakha”, his “Master”. The Lord also said that he liked the way Sundarar addressed him initially – “Pittha” – ‘Hey Mad Man’. So he suggested starting with the same – And Sundarar Sang –

“Pittha Pirai Soodi Perumane Arulala” – This comes as the 7th Tevaram in the Tirumurai.

This was the temple where all this divine ‘leela’ happened. The temple did not have much crowd when we went there and we had a very fulfilling darsanam. The archaka was kind enough to explain the details once again and showed us a very unique artifact in the temple.

Lord Siva, when he pulled in Sundarar to the temple and went inside the sanctum sanctorum, had left his ‘padukam’ outside. The same is kept even now in a sandal paste and inside a glass covering. Seeing the padukams, the very, used by Lord himself, we were overcome with emotion and relived the episode in our minds. How do we explain the ‘Apaara Karuna Mahima’ of The Lord who comes in and deliberately saves the jeevan. – ‘Thaduthu Aal Kondein’ is a very important and relevant term in almost all the Tamil Saints and their Songs. The Lord himself / herself comes and ensures that the ‘I becomes a ‘jeevanmukta’ when the complete surrender – the ‘aatma samarpanam’ happens.

“God, through His grace attracts the souls like a magnet attracting the iron. " – 5^th Sutra, Siva Gnaana Bodham – by Mei Kanda Devar

The Archaka at the temple was gracious enough to give a printed version of the ‘varalaar’ – the history of the temple. The book’s title itself is “Thaduthu Aal Konda Varalaar” and was in Tamil. We also saw Devi Sannidhi and then the hall where the Naattukoottam meeting happened in front of the temple itself.

Thus filled with emotions we started off to our next location.

Thirukkoyilur

The town has two main temples one of Vishnu and one of Siva. The Vishnu temple is in the form of Thiruvikrama Swamy and Vedavalli Thaayaar (the Vaamana Avatharam also known as Ulakalantha Perumal) and is one of the 108 Divya Deshams. The Siva temple is known as the Veeratteswarar and is the second in the Ashta Veeratta Kshetrams – the places where Lord Siva did the Veera Bhava protection.

We reached around 12 noon and the temple archakas were making some arrangements for the ensuing festivities which were supposed to start the next week or so. The archaka here also was kind enough to explain to us and show some uniqueness of the temple. The temple was the place where Lord Siva killed / destroyed the Andhakara Asura and did the Veera Bhavam. In one of the bronze statues in the side of the main sanctum, this is clearly depicted and the asura is lifted up on the Trishulam. He had to be lifted so that his blood drops were taken in by Devi separately as fresh Andhkara Asuras were being created from these drops. The Asura himself originally came into being when Devi playfully closed Lord’s eyes when they were spending time together.

Archaka also said the following details on the temple –

This was also a Sukra Kshetram as the Asura Guru was given Anugraham by Lord Siva by swallowing him and then releasing him after the samhaara of Andhakaasura, for otherwise,  he would have brought the Asura back to life using Sanjeevani Vidya..

The kshetram was also said as the release place of Dakini, who is a consort in the inner tantric methods. It was said that the place is also famous such that the Saptha Mathrikas, Maha Tripurasundari and all the 64 Bhairavas and the Bhairavis came into their forms here. This was also a place where the Vaastu Purusha was brought into form. One of the temple corner walls on the top has Vaasthu Purusha being sculpted also.

Apart from this, Muruka here, which is on the right hand side when you come out of the main sanctum, has been sung upon by Arunagirinathar and is famous as Shanmukha. Muruka wanted to do tapas due to the killing of demons and Devi Ambika showed the location where her vel fell. The place is also known as Tiru Kai Vel.

The Durga devi who is in the prakaarams have a uniqueness that her eyes glitter when shown the Aarathi. Whether the sculptor was skillful enough or a divine presence manifested there, either way this is a very special significance and certainly prayers to Durga is very famous here.

The south west has Vinaayakar who is an equally if not more famous presence here in the temple. It is said that the great Saint Avvaiyar while doing her worship here at the idol of Ganapathi, looked up and saw Sundara Moorthy Nayanar and Cheraman Perumal in the sky flying towards Kailasam. When she hastened her Pooja, Ganesha asked her – “Avvaiye, why the haste?” When she said the reason, Ganesha asked her to finish her Pooja in the normal way and ensured that she would be taken to Kailasam by himself. True to his anugraham, he showed his Viswaroopam and as ‘periya yaanai’ – big elephant, he lifted her on his trunk and in a ‘nodi’ – smallest fraction of time, she was taken to The Lord’s abode at Kailasam where Nayanar and Perumal had reached. Such is his grace that he is known as Periyaanai Ganapathi. Avvaiyar had composed the famous Vinayakar Agaval on him.

The Ambal is known as Periyanayaki, Sivanandavalli and Brhannayaki also. The Archaka showed us the Devi vigraham and specifically showed her two Karna Abharanams – these were Sri Chakrams!!!

The place is also said to be the Samadhi of Meiporul Nayanar who is one of the 63 Saiva saints. This is also a place of birth of at least two other Nayanaars also.

This was a major temple in the main stream Saiva Sampradayam and we came out after our prayers for our onward journey.

Gnaanananda Swamy Samadhi

I had read about his Samadhi place but however was not sure in which direction it was from Tiruvannamalai. Though all of us were tired and were trying to reach Tiruvannamali for a good lunch and some rest before the start of our next rounds, I was hoping to see any directions to his Samadhi Mandapam.

The place is known as Gnaanananda Tapovanam and is on the same river Banks – Pennar as Tirukkoyilur is. The place is on the route from Tirukkoyilur to Tiruvannamalai. At this place due to a barricade on the road by the police and the crossing of some cows, our vehicle almost had to be stopped and while it slowed down the Aashram was seen on the left side. I was amazed to personally witness this karuna by the Lord where his Samadhi Aashram was seen almost unexpectedly. We carried out with our journey after this temporary halt, mentally doing our pranams at the great sages’ feet at his Samadhi and receiving his blessings.