Travelogue TN: Epilogue

Epilogue

One of the slokams read -

“Jananat Kamalalaye, Kasyantu maranam, mukti,
Darsnanat Abhrasadasi, smaranad Arunachale.....”

Bhagavan Ramana replied:

Yes. What is Jnananat Kamalalaye?*  Being born in the Heart!
(*Kamalalayam means Tiruvarur and also the Heart) 
What is Darsanad Abhrasadasi?*  Seeing the Seat of Consciousness! 
(* Abhrasadasi means seeing Seat of Nataraja in Chidamabram and also seeing the Seat.)
Kasyantu Maranam. What is it?  Kasi is the Light of Realiztion.
Dying in the light of realization is dying in Kasi!
Smaranad Arunachale. Remembering Arunachala, the Effulgence,
is to be assured of Liberation!

--------------------- Gurucharanou Samarpayami-----------------------------

Travelogue TN: Day 7 - Thiruvottriyur, Pattinathar Samadhi, Melur

4^th May Friday

Thiruvottriyur – Adi Pureeshwarar

We went to the temple early morning to have our darsanam at the temple and also at the Thyagaraja Sannidhi. We went into the temple and had the darsanam of the Siva Lingam and the Tyagaraja Sannidi. The temple is another of the famous paadal pettra Sthalams.

We saw the 27 Nakshatrams in the form of various Siva Lingams – a very unique feature of the temple. A person who is born under a particular star can have their special poojas / prayers done here in front of the Lingam for the particular star. Pancha Bhoota Lingams are also present just before the Gosala. It is also said that The Vayu Lingam is the place of Roma Rishi Samadhi – one of the great Maharishis in the great Indian Panorama of Sages.

The Sthalapuranam says that during one of the Pralayams, Brahma Deva did deep Tapas at this place before the commencement of the next Srishti cycles. Shiva rose from the Yoga-agni in a strange and indecipherable form. Flames of fire crackled and blazed from which emerged a chittirappalakai, a flat square drawing board like shape that formed a Shivalinga. Brahma prayed for the great waters to subside. Shiva ordained that this town be exempted from destruction. The Agni Kunta became the temple and Shiva resides here as agni or fire with his consort Darbanayagi Ammal who embodies Chit Shakthi. Thus the town which was exempted from deluge – ‘orutral’ – got the name Tiruvottriyur.

Another story is that King Mandata levied taxes for all places including Sivastalams. Surprisingly, when his orders inscribed in palm manuscripts arrived at Tiruvotriyur, an additional line appeared on them, apparently from nowhere. This line decreed that this township be exempted from the orders. The king enquired as to who had interpolated those words. No one seemed to have done it. The king after examination decided that it was not one of his own men who did it.  He rubbed and removed away the words from the palm script that sanctioned exemption and kept it locked. The next day, on examining the manuscripts, the same words had reappeared. King Mandata felt that Lord Shiva himself had chose Otriyur as ‘His Own Land’.

The king exempted the township from tax payment. Tiruvotriyur (‘the town exempted’ from tax payment) was thus created. In consonance with this episode, the moolavar in this temple is also called ‘Ezhuthariyum Peruman’. (‘He who chose to write’)

The temple is famous and is one of the paadal pettra Sthalam.

We went to the Devi Sannidhi – Vadivudai Amman – One of the Tri Sakthi Sthalams.

Devi here is also known as Gnaana Shakthi.

Iccha Shakthi Gnaana Shakti Kriya Shakti Swaroopini -

Three temples depict the famous three names –

Vadivudai Amman at Tiruvottriyur – Gnaana Shakthi

Tiruvudai Amman at Melur        - Iccha Shakthi &

Kodiyudai Amman at Tirumullaivayil – Kriya Shakthi.

As some abhishekams and morning poojas done there, the Sannidhi was closed at the time we went there. We waited and then it was opened – The divine beauty is un-explainable. We stood there oblivious to the surroundings for some time.

Before we proceeded to Melur to visit the Iccha Sakthi temple we went to Pattinathar Samadhi.

Pattinathar Samadhi 

The Samadhi is located about 1 km from the temple on the eastern side cutting through the road for lorry traffic. The temple has a direct entrance to the road now and the approach is given a small Gate showing the same.

Pattinathar is another of the great 18 Siddhars whose story is well documented and the details of the incident when he gets the palm leaf inscribed – ‘Kaathatra Oosiyum Vaarathu Kanum Kadaivazhikke’ (Not even an eyeless needle will accompany you in your final journey of life) is quite a famous quote in the Spiritual traditions in South India.

He asked some of the children playing near the beach to cover him in a pit and while they did this, he would playfully emerge outside immediately and walk towards them. The last time they did, he did not come out but was transformed into a Sivalingam. It is the very same Lingam which is seen and done Pooja upon.

Melur – Tiruvudai Amman – Iccha Sakthi

From Tiruvottriyur, we went to Melur which is on the route to Minjur and a very heavily industrialized area with huge Lorry traffic. When we reached the temple there was a marriage function going on at the Devi Sannidhanam. We actually walked in to the sound of welcoming Naadaswara Melam and did our full darsanam with the full orchestration on the backside. While we were having darsanam at the Devi Sannidhi the Melam also intensified as the taali muhurtham also was approaching.

The temple also has a hidden cave visible at the back side of the main sanctum sanctorum – Tirumanangeeswarar. The caves probably date back to the early Sangam ages and is said to connect the Tirumullaivayil Kshetram and was probably due to political reasons.

Back to our Rooms –

We wanted to go to the third Sakthi temple at Tirumullaivayil and also see the Rasa Lingam there. But then, ‘The Lord’ had other ideas as we got caught in a major traffic jam and had to wait in the road for about 2 hours. We didn’t have time on our side as we were going back to our places by evening and thus had to drop the plan.

Kameshwara and Kameshwari had been very kind enough and showered the good fortune for all of us to visit - Three of the Pancha bhootha lingams, one of the Saptha Vitanka Kshetrams, one of the Veeratta Kshetrams, one of the Pancha Sabha Kshetrams, one of the Saptha Sthanams, three of the Aadhara Sthalams, a host of the Paadal Petra Sthalams and some major Samadhi Sthalams. The wish of the Lord is the Order of any day for us and we bow to the ‘Apaara Karuna’ by which this entire Samarpanam played out itself.

Travelogue TN: Day 6 - Tiruvanmiyur, Pamban Samadhi

Chennai – Tiruvanmiyur

I and my parents went to Tiruvanmiyur Maruntheeswarar Kovil in the evening. It turned out to be Pradosham and the temple precincts were naturally crowded. There were a lot of activities at the temple. Some were singing, some group in meditation, some readying for Tevarams while some went on to a stage for a prabhashanam. Some were busy serving for Annadaanam while many were busy in the queue for receiving the same. We had our darsanam at the Siva Lingam and the Devi Sannidhi and came out.

Pamban Samadhi

From Tiruvanmiyur temple we went to the Samadhi shrine of Sri Pamban Swami. He was a sage who was a siddha purusha and the compound had one of his disciples’ Samadhi also. Also in the compound was a Muruka temple. But sadly we failed to enter the prakaaram.

Travelogue TN: Day 5 & 6 - Tiruvannamalai, Ramanashramam, Seshadri Samadhi

Tiruvannamalai

We reached the town at 2.00 pm. Our stay was arranged at the Samadhi of Seshadri Swamikal and was adjacent to Ramanashramam. Once checked in we had our lunch and rested awhile.

Arunachalam and Tiruvannamalai Koil

The details of Tiruvannamalai is so well known and Ramana Maharshi, one of the greatest exponents of Sudhha Buddha Mukta Swaroopam and Kevala Jnaana Ghana Nidhi and who is also considered as the 64^th Nayanar alongside the 63 great ones have lived there. Samadhi of Idaikkadar Siddhar – one of the 18 Maha Siddhar, is said to be here. Details of the place and the histories are also available for the same.

The Agni Kshetram, where Sage Arunagirinathar was saved by Lord Muruga when he wanted to end his life and gave the greatest Upadesham – “Chumma Iru”, the place where the Pataleswara Lingam is there where Sri Ramana Maharshi had spent a considerable time in tapas, where the body of Sri Arunagirinathar was interned at the back courtyard of the temple was majestically present and we were eagerly awaiting to go in. By about 4.30 we came near the temple. The plan was that a group of us was proceeding to do Girivalam after Darshanam at the temple, while some may stay back to either visit Virupaksha Guha or to be at Ramanashramam for the evening.

When we reached the temple back side, we found that the gate was opened. We all went in and before we even noticed was immediately adjacent to the main diety’s prakaaram. We went in and had a darsanam ‘atiseekhram’ that we felt as if he prepared the way for us. Normally when we enter the temple it takes time to reach the inner temple because of the vastness. The group who had planned for Girivalam had started off by this time. We were taken in by such a good feeling to have the boon of darsanam so quick and full to our minds without any crowd, my father recounted the story of Ramana Maharshi, when he came to the temple the first time, nobody was there including the Archakas and he went directly to the Lord and did ‘Aalinganam’ of the deity.

We also saw the deity of Muruka, remembered the story of Arunagirinathar, and also His songs which originally started with the first one – ‘Muthai Tharu Pathhi Thirunakai’.  We also spent some time near the Patalalinga where Ramana Maharshi did Tapas. We spent some more time at the temple after this and noticed a very pretty site where the evening sun’s rays had shown through the clouds as if rays of ‘Arul Kripa Kataksham’ were being showered. We remained at the temple until some light shower drizzled in that summer!!!

We also knew that there was some festivity during this time and the next day morning some special abhishekams were planned.

Once back from the temple and trying to come out of the back gate, we saw that the same was locked. When asked, one temple staffs who was there told that this is generally not opened during this time and is reserved for specific reasons. I told him that we came through that way, and he replied that this would not be opened now. We got our vehicles to come to the North Gopuram and then proceeded to Ramanasramam.

Ramanashramam

We stayed at the Ashramam till our minds were filled. Sat for some time at the Samadhi hall and the small room where he used to sit. We also did our pranaamams at his mother’s Samadhi and the room where he shed his body. We had food from the Ashramam as Prasaadam and then slowly retired to our rooms. We could not visit the Virupaksha guha due to the time and our tiredness also.

The next day also in the morning we came here and spent considerable time at the Samadhi and the bookstall. Malini was insistent on a particular book which has subsequently made an important change in her life.

3^rd May - Thursday

Adi Arunachalam and Giri Valam

We also went around the Arunachalam in the car as we were not in a position to take the arduous journey then. We also visited the Adi Arunachala Kshetram and mentally prayed at all the Eight Lingams while doing the Valam. ‘Arunachala Parvatam’ was looking like a Sri Meru when viewed from the South West side. That the Siva Agni Roopam itself solidified into the hill i.e. the Arunachalam is the reason why the saying is that ‘Arunachalam Smarana Mathrena Mukthi’ – the esoteric meaning to be found individually. Those who went the previous day on foot had finished the same and had come back by 11.00 pm with their hearts filled with joy and prayers.

Seshadri Samadhi

We stayed at the Seshadri Aashram just besides the Samadhi of the great person. Probably apart from Colachel at Sri Sivasankara Swamy Samadhi, I had not stayed overnight at any other Samadhis before. The compound had apart from his, many other great Saints whose bodies were interned there. Considering that Ramana Aashram was also practically the neighbouring compound, where equally number of Samadhis were there, and all the while immediately next to the Arunachala hill, I had a feeling of being resting in among the ever protecting hands of the Lord himself with great Saints watching and blessing us.

Spent some time at the Samadhi with my father and had a very nice feeling about it. Swamikal was among the first persons to identify Ramana Maharshi as a great person and used to protect him from street urchins who used to throw stones at him for fun. Swamikal also was considered a Siddha Purusha whose visit or any gesture was treasured by the people there. The first time I had visited Tiruvannamalai in 2001, I had asked my uncle who had taken us there about Seshadri Swamy, seeing his Samadhi there. I found that the Aashram looked similar as I had seen during 2001. Swamikal was also known as Kancheepuram Seshadri Swamikal as he originally hailed from there and he was involved in a lot of Ishwara Leelas as witnessed by some of the disciples of Ramana Maharshi has later said.

It was no wonder that Sri Ramana Maharshi had remained at the place where they interned the body of Swamikal until the Samadhi was ready in a marked respect from a Jnaani to a Jnaani.

Around 10.00 am we started our onward journey to Chennai for our return journeys.

After an otherwise uneventful journey we reached Chennai late afternoon. Saumya and kids dropped off near their home, Teacher and the team from Hyderabad was dropped at Chennai Railway Station – Ma’am, her Nephew Aditya, Lakshmi, her sister, their kids and mother, Vanaja Aunty, her husband and grand child. Gomathi Aunty got down at the Airport. My family stayed back at Chennai while Ma’am’s son Krishna went back to Tanjavur in the van.

Travelogue TN: Day 5 - Tiruvennainallur, Thirukkoyilur, Gnaanananda Tapovanam

2nd May Wednesday

First part of our trip was in Thanjavur and the second in Chidambaram.

We proceeded for the third part of our journey by next day morning. On the way we had a glimpse of the outer areas of the massive Neyveli Lignite Corporation and proceeded to Tiruvannamalai.

Our plan was to visit two places before reaching Tiruvannamalai – first Tiruvennainallur and second Tirukkoilur.

Tiruvennainallur

We reached Tiruvennainallur around 11.00 and went into the temple. The area was slightly difficult to find as our Saradhis were not clear about the same. The reach to the temple was also through some narrow routes than the main road.

Sunadarar as he was known, was about to have his marriage ceremonies started when the whole function was disrupted by an old brahmin. He claimed that Sundarar cannot enter into a marriage since he is has authority over Sundarar’s life as a master to a slave. Naturally a commotion happened and Sundarar also was extremely scathing in his attack to the oddly looking person who was spreading a beautiful ‘parimalam’ – fragrance inspite of his appearance. Sundarar addressed him as ‘Pittha’ and questioned– “What are you talking about? What proof do you have to come with such an allegation at the time of such an important function in my life which actually changes my life course? Are you mad?”

The old Brahmin said that he was from TiruVennainallur. Because of the ‘Tarkam’ which had happened due to this, everyone was taken to the Naattukoottam (Local panchayat) at the place.

The odd looking Brahmin, with vibhoothi on his body, Rudaksha around his neck and matted locks, showed the people around them and Sundarar a palm leaf where it was written by Sundarar’s grand father that he and his sons will be a slave – ‘adimai’ to this person. Some of the people who had gathered went to Sundarar’s house took another leaf where writings and signature of his grand father was there. The signatures matched!!!!. (Most of the systems in society which we are taught as modern day innovations in the last 2-3 centuries have been so prevalent as a system of life in India so long before…)

With the incredible unfolding of events, the Naattukoottam which had convened at the precincts of the temple of Tiruvennainallur got convinced that there was merit in this unique person’s demand and was finally declared that there was enough evidence for Sundarar to be a slave to him until he releases Sundarar of his slavery.

Thus hearing, the old brahmin asked Sundarar to accompany him and literally pulled him, at times dragging him along the way and the temple. Sundarar was absolutely crest fallen and entered the state of ‘no-thought’ as his experience was so shattering that it changed all that was around him. The moment he was pulled in by his “Master”, he lost all his mental ‘vikshepams’. ‘Mano Vrtti Layam’ happened and he went into the temple after his “Master”.

His “Master” walked straight into the ‘Garbha Grham’ which may have slightly surprised Sundarar to come out of his mental stillness. Sundarar saw him disappearing into the Siva Lingam there and was astonished to see this phenomenon. He tried to look into the sanctum santorum to actually see where his “Master” went and he did see HIM – Lord Siva gave him the darsanam with Parvathi at the place where Siva Lingam was kept. The sight of the Lord himself brought the memory of his previous births and the reason why he was born. His intellect was absolutely clear and Jnaana Amrutha Paanam was fully experienced by him then. Sundarar became a Jnaani at that moment.

Sundarar was asked to sing about his “Sakha”, his “Master”. The Lord also said that he liked the way Sundarar addressed him initially – “Pittha” – ‘Hey Mad Man’. So he suggested starting with the same – And Sundarar Sang –

“Pittha Pirai Soodi Perumane Arulala” – This comes as the 7th Tevaram in the Tirumurai.

This was the temple where all this divine ‘leela’ happened. The temple did not have much crowd when we went there and we had a very fulfilling darsanam. The archaka was kind enough to explain the details once again and showed us a very unique artifact in the temple.

Lord Siva, when he pulled in Sundarar to the temple and went inside the sanctum sanctorum, had left his ‘padukam’ outside. The same is kept even now in a sandal paste and inside a glass covering. Seeing the padukams, the very, used by Lord himself, we were overcome with emotion and relived the episode in our minds. How do we explain the ‘Apaara Karuna Mahima’ of The Lord who comes in and deliberately saves the jeevan. – ‘Thaduthu Aal Kondein’ is a very important and relevant term in almost all the Tamil Saints and their Songs. The Lord himself / herself comes and ensures that the ‘I becomes a ‘jeevanmukta’ when the complete surrender – the ‘aatma samarpanam’ happens.

“God, through His grace attracts the souls like a magnet attracting the iron. " – 5^th Sutra, Siva Gnaana Bodham – by Mei Kanda Devar

The Archaka at the temple was gracious enough to give a printed version of the ‘varalaar’ – the history of the temple. The book’s title itself is “Thaduthu Aal Konda Varalaar” and was in Tamil. We also saw Devi Sannidhi and then the hall where the Naattukoottam meeting happened in front of the temple itself.

Thus filled with emotions we started off to our next location.

Thirukkoyilur

The town has two main temples one of Vishnu and one of Siva. The Vishnu temple is in the form of Thiruvikrama Swamy and Vedavalli Thaayaar (the Vaamana Avatharam also known as Ulakalantha Perumal) and is one of the 108 Divya Deshams. The Siva temple is known as the Veeratteswarar and is the second in the Ashta Veeratta Kshetrams – the places where Lord Siva did the Veera Bhava protection.

We reached around 12 noon and the temple archakas were making some arrangements for the ensuing festivities which were supposed to start the next week or so. The archaka here also was kind enough to explain to us and show some uniqueness of the temple. The temple was the place where Lord Siva killed / destroyed the Andhakara Asura and did the Veera Bhavam. In one of the bronze statues in the side of the main sanctum, this is clearly depicted and the asura is lifted up on the Trishulam. He had to be lifted so that his blood drops were taken in by Devi separately as fresh Andhkara Asuras were being created from these drops. The Asura himself originally came into being when Devi playfully closed Lord’s eyes when they were spending time together.

Archaka also said the following details on the temple –

This was also a Sukra Kshetram as the Asura Guru was given Anugraham by Lord Siva by swallowing him and then releasing him after the samhaara of Andhakaasura, for otherwise,  he would have brought the Asura back to life using Sanjeevani Vidya..

The kshetram was also said as the release place of Dakini, who is a consort in the inner tantric methods. It was said that the place is also famous such that the Saptha Mathrikas, Maha Tripurasundari and all the 64 Bhairavas and the Bhairavis came into their forms here. This was also a place where the Vaastu Purusha was brought into form. One of the temple corner walls on the top has Vaasthu Purusha being sculpted also.

Apart from this, Muruka here, which is on the right hand side when you come out of the main sanctum, has been sung upon by Arunagirinathar and is famous as Shanmukha. Muruka wanted to do tapas due to the killing of demons and Devi Ambika showed the location where her vel fell. The place is also known as Tiru Kai Vel.

The Durga devi who is in the prakaarams have a uniqueness that her eyes glitter when shown the Aarathi. Whether the sculptor was skillful enough or a divine presence manifested there, either way this is a very special significance and certainly prayers to Durga is very famous here.

The south west has Vinaayakar who is an equally if not more famous presence here in the temple. It is said that the great Saint Avvaiyar while doing her worship here at the idol of Ganapathi, looked up and saw Sundara Moorthy Nayanar and Cheraman Perumal in the sky flying towards Kailasam. When she hastened her Pooja, Ganesha asked her – “Avvaiye, why the haste?” When she said the reason, Ganesha asked her to finish her Pooja in the normal way and ensured that she would be taken to Kailasam by himself. True to his anugraham, he showed his Viswaroopam and as ‘periya yaanai’ – big elephant, he lifted her on his trunk and in a ‘nodi’ – smallest fraction of time, she was taken to The Lord’s abode at Kailasam where Nayanar and Perumal had reached. Such is his grace that he is known as Periyaanai Ganapathi. Avvaiyar had composed the famous Vinayakar Agaval on him.

The Ambal is known as Periyanayaki, Sivanandavalli and Brhannayaki also. The Archaka showed us the Devi vigraham and specifically showed her two Karna Abharanams – these were Sri Chakrams!!!

The place is also said to be the Samadhi of Meiporul Nayanar who is one of the 63 Saiva saints. This is also a place of birth of at least two other Nayanaars also.

This was a major temple in the main stream Saiva Sampradayam and we came out after our prayers for our onward journey.

Gnaanananda Swamy Samadhi

I had read about his Samadhi place but however was not sure in which direction it was from Tiruvannamalai. Though all of us were tired and were trying to reach Tiruvannamali for a good lunch and some rest before the start of our next rounds, I was hoping to see any directions to his Samadhi Mandapam.

The place is known as Gnaanananda Tapovanam and is on the same river Banks – Pennar as Tirukkoyilur is. The place is on the route from Tirukkoyilur to Tiruvannamalai. At this place due to a barricade on the road by the police and the crossing of some cows, our vehicle almost had to be stopped and while it slowed down the Aashram was seen on the left side. I was amazed to personally witness this karuna by the Lord where his Samadhi Aashram was seen almost unexpectedly. We carried out with our journey after this temporary halt, mentally doing our pranams at the great sages’ feet at his Samadhi and receiving his blessings.

Travelogue TN: Day 4 - Chidambaram

Chidambaram

‘Sabhapathikku Vere Daivam Samaanamaakumaa?’

This was the ‘Akaasha Kshethram’ in the ‘Pancha Bhootha Kshetrams’. Chidambaram is the ‘Kanakasabha’ which is one of the five ‘Sabhas’ of Lord Siva. This is where people like Manikkavachakar had their Samadhis by ‘Vilaya Praapyam’ into the ‘Nataraja Sannidhi’ as a ‘Jyoti Vilayam’. This is the place where the ‘Ambaram ie Aakasham’ is ‘swayam-prabham’ as the ‘Chitswaroopam’ where the Lord does his ‘Ananda Tandava Natanam’. Trying to write itself chokes ourselves with emotion – How do we even try to say anything….

The temple is well documented by a lot of luminaries. Still I found every one having a description of their own upon their visits. The ‘Chitswaroopa Spandanam’ is ‘Yogi Hrid-Dhyana Gamyam’, but I saw that it is knowingly or unknowingly perceptible to all who are the ‘Adi Panipavar’ – the ones who surrender to him - at his Sannidhi.

We went to the temple having a general understanding that we would visit the temple, then go to Tillai Kali temple, have our darsanam there, then come back to spend the time here. Teacher was planning to do a parayanam of Soundarya Lahari. Well the sequence unfolded slightly different for some of us.

We (myself, Malini, Rishi, Father, Mother, Saumya and her children) travelled in the Tavera and reached the place while others had already gone in and had their darsanams. When we tried to enter the main mandapam for close darsanam of the Nataraja Moorthi we were asked to take separate coupons for the same. While taking this I had requested the Archaka, to show us the Chidambara Rahasyam. For this he told us that this would take about another half an hour to one hour time and we agreed to wait for it. My uncle had told about the Chidambara Rahasyam and had given guidance on how to understand the same.

While we stood inside the main mandapam we could see all the poojas and the rituals done by various archakas inside. In between they asked all of us who were standing there to move out due to some ritual. The Archaka asked us to wait at the side and we were waiting to see what would happen. We could see the main Pujari of the temple coming in after some time and again people were let in. We also went in through the left stairway where the main Pujari went in. After sometime, it was the time for Abhishekams and all who were standing there even the ones with tickets to see the Rahasyam were asked to stand outside. I was counting on the Lord’s blessing, we were left undisturbed there, with a full view of all the Ahishekams done in our front!!!

The ‘Sphatika Lingam’ was brought from inside. The Abhishekams were with Milk, Honey, Water and a lot of other such items. Once this was fully over and the main Pujari went inside, other people standing outside were also called in. After the Deeparadhana, it was time to show the Rahasyam. We were asked to come to one side to see through the wall columns where the Aakasham was shown by way of Golden Bilwa leaves. This was shown and naturally the same was like a force upon us when we saw it. Father could not see it properly and told the Archaka the same. We were wondering when they would show this the next time. Again they were kind to call out for all those who wanted to see it again and we had the fulfilling darsanam again.

Unable to think much or plan further after the flow of events we just came and stood at the foot of the mandapam where the full grandeur of the Nataraja Moorthy was visible and a full Deepa Aradhana happened. The Perumal Anantha Sayanam on the immediate left also was seen. After some time when crowd had come down we went in for darsanam there. Again we came back to the front of the Mandapam and sat there practically blinking and just gulping the nectar of Sabha Grandeur we were seeing.

‘Nischintaye Sivadhyanam’ – My uncle had told us the depth of its meaning. The live example, we were made to witness ourselves.

We sat in the Sannidhi for a long period of time and then slowly went around the temple. There was a Sabha Mandapam directly in front of the main place. Kaali and on a side, Sarabheshwarar was there. Saw Muruka Sannidhi, the other deities including the main Siva deity which is on the back side of the Nataraja Sannidhi. The Four Vedams were shown depicted as personifications in pictures. We sat in the outer prakaaram and had some water from the arrangements kept. Coming out of the temple, a strong breeze was kind of following us which filled our hearts.

‘Krupaanidhi Ivarapolai Kidaikumoo Indha Bhoomi Thannil’

My uncle had also instructed us to necessarily visit Tillai Kali as the Lord himself had given a boon to her saying that “A visit to my abode here will only be complete when the person visits you also along with it.”

We proceeded to Tillai Kali temple. The main deity is Brahma Chamundeswari with four faces. There is a separate Sannidhi for Kali fully draped in Red Vermillion, with her gaze slightly down as a show of the result in the Dance Duel with Lord Siva. She was looking both graceful and fierce at the same time with the entire colour, the Sandhya time and the lamps. There was Deeparadhana when we went there and we had our Darsanams there. This is one of the rare temples (probably only one) where Dakshinamurthi is in a feminine rupam – Kadambavana Dakshinarupini and Saraswathi Devi graces the praakaram as Veena Vidyambika.

Again something unique happened here. We were given some Puliyodaram prasadam by one of the Archakas. I went back into the temple and saw him standing at the main deity. After giving dakshina to him, I moved into the nearby table where a person who looked like a temple authority was sitting. He was talking to another person of importance – judging from appearance and the way all people were reacting to him. Once this person moved, I enquired for the details of the deity and the main sanctum. He was kind enough to tell me the details. I also bought two small picture of the deity. Then I asked about a particular detail on which he first showed some surprise and enquired from where I was coming from. Then he told the details of the same and it was connected with the Rahasyam. Filled with unexplainable bliss and remembering my Uncles words that Lord Siva has made the rule of visiting Devi inorder to make the Darsanam full, we came back and then rested after having food.

Teacher and others who managed to carry on with the original plan came back, had the parayanam done, had the good fortune to see the Abhishekams, Unjal Seva etc and had the Prasadam from the temple before they also retired to their own rooms.

‘Orutharam Shiva Chidambaram Endru Sonnal Podhume

Paragathi Pera Veru Puniyam Panna Vendumaa’

Travelogue TN: Day 4 - Sirkazhi, Vaitheeswaran Koil

Sirkazhi

We reached back from Vallalar’s place little knowing that we will have to take the same route to Tiruvannamalai the next day.

We had the morning food, and then started off. The sun was unrelenting during this time and it is only due to the kind grace of the Lord himself that we were left with very little health problems.

We reached Sirkazhi around 11.00. Sirkazhi is probably the most sung about temple in the Tevarams. This is also the place where the divine play of Thiru Gnaana Sambandhar happened.

The story is that when Sambandhar was a baby, his father kept him on the banks of the pond and was taking his bath. Due to hunger the little boy started crying Amma….. The ever kind divine couple Siva- Parvathi heard the same and Devi was moved with compassion.

With the Lord’s permission, she gave some milk to the boy and his ‘HUNGER’ was satisfied in the instant of her ‘karuna kataksham’. When his father came back from his daily ablutions, seeing a milk plate near the child, he was initially furious and threw away the same thinking that in his absence someone gave food to the child. The temple wall precinct still have a small dent, which is carefully marked even now, where the plate had gone and hit while he threw it away.

But Sambandhar put all questions to rest by breaking out into his first ‘paadal - Thodudaya Seviyan’ with which one of the most glorious and incredible chapters of Tamil history started.

In the temple seeing the Siva Lingam we were reminded of his ‘Apaara Karuna’ which is the boon every one seeks. I have heard well meaning radicals talk about life as only for improving our standards of living and bettering our own thought process followed by the correct understanding of things. What else is the ‘Karuna’ we talk about, when the Lord pours it over us and make us fully ‘nimagna’ in the flow of his ever lasting love and oneness?

There was a Sannidhi of Uma Maheshwara on the Vimana of the Garbha Griha where some excellent pictures and the vigrahams greeted all of us with their wonderful stories. It says that it was here, where the divine couple was sitting when they heard Gnaana Sambandhar crying…..

Inside the temple walls, by the side of the pond an area is marked, which is frequented by people as the place where the divine ‘leela’ happened. Praying humbly at the Devi’s abode near the main shrine we hurried into the vehicles as the pavements were already hot and our feet were burning.

Vaitheeswaran Koil

We were slightly concerned whether temple would close by around 12 and we were rushing in. Little we realized that it turned out to be Tuesday and being the Managala Kshetram in the Navagraha temples, the temple was open comfortably for the day. It was crowded!!!!

My teacher got us to sing “Angaarakam Aashrayaamyaham” by Sri Dikshitar and we made three full pradakshinams at the Kuja Sannidhi. Abhishekams were happening during the time. In the krithi, there is a line which specifically points to the temple – “Vaidya Natha Kshetram” in the “Charanam”. The story of the Navagraha Krithis by Muthuswamy Dikshitar is very interesting. He composed the Angaaraka Stuthi for one of his sishyas when he was unwell which was diagnosed by Dikshitar as Kuja Dosham. To relieve this he composed the krithi. The same was cured in no time and upon the request from his other sishyas all the other 8 Grahams were sung upon using different Ragams and using all the Main Sapta Talams.

We went around to the main deity – The Vaitheeswarar. It s said that this is the place of Dhanwanthari Samadhi – one of 18 Maha Siddhars - thus the name of Vaitheeswarar. We could manage Darsanam in the heavy crowd and while doing the circumambulation, we also prayed at the Muruka Sannidhi, Jatayu Sthalam and spent sometime there. Jatayu was cremated here in this spot as per the oral traditions and it was for Jatayu that Sri Rama did the Karmams which even his Father Dasharatha could not receive directly upon his demise.

We also went around the Devi Thayyalnayaki and were standing near the flag pole for the Lord himself. It was uniquely lit from the sunlight from above and we stood under the golden rays fully getting immersed in the splendour the Lord provided for us.

Filled with ‘Mana: Sukham’ we returned to the hotel and rested until our further outing.

Travelogue TN: Day 4 - Vallalar

1^st May - Tuesday

I am unable to say any particular day as a climax in the program, since each and every day presented itself so majestically mystic and full of the Parama Chaithanyam.

This day we stayed at Chidambaram and moved around. What a good providence for us to be in the city of Kanaka Sabha and be able to go around places which were so full of ancient traditions and history. The only trouble which we probably had during this time was the comparatively bad stay at the hotel here.

Vallalar – Ramalingaswamy

Vallalar was among the greatest Tamil Saints. He lived during the late 19^th century and was connected to Chidambaram in a unique way.

When Ramalinga Adigal was five months old, his parents took him to the Chidambaram Temple. It is said that the infant laughed aloud when the priest offered the traditional Deepa Aradhana to the Lord. This apparently routine visit to the temple thus offered him his first spiritual experience as well. In later years he said of the experience,

"No sooner the Light was perceived, happiness prevailed on me"
"The sweet nectar was tasted by me as soon as the Arutperumjyothi (Supreme Grace Of Light) became visible”

He used to say that the Lord is “Arul Perum Jyothi” – Personification of Mercy and Knowledge.

He was one of the saints who used to be always in the ‘Turiyateeta Nilai’ which is even after the Turiya state. He used to wear a white robe to cover his body so as to cover the ‘Divya Jyoti’ which was emanating from his body. ‘Jeeva Karunyam’ was his teaching and the state of Karunyam was achieved only when the vision is all encompassing as ones own self.

He opened the Sathya Gnaana Sabha at Vadalur and established a center for feeding the poor people. He lighted a lamp there and said that the fire would be ever alive. This centre is maintained now and his writings and books on him are available at this location. 

At a village known as Mettukuppam very close to Vadalur in the Siddhivilakam Maligai, Adigal on January 30, 1874, entered the room and locked himself and told his followers not to open it. He said that even if they did open it they would find nothing. His seclusion spurred many rumors, and the Government finally forced open the doors in May. The room was empty, with no clues. The Madras District Gazetteer published by the South Arcot District in 1906 records his disappearance

That room is still kept sacred and closed. We spent some time in front of the room. It was an unexplainable experience. We felt as if we were touched deeply somewhere inside and a vast reservoir of unexplainable emotion of contentment and peace was opened. Tears streaming from our eyes and feeling that there was no need to break it, we spent some more time in the courtyard.

The entire surroundings are very lively, deep inside the village and pleasant. A deepam is kept there adjacent to the room and people maintain the same as an Ashram.

A renunciate who initially showed us the place and a brahmacharini, were standing near the road at the new Mantapam, keenly watching us. We went and spoke to them. He couldn’t (wouldn’t?) speak and conveyed mostly on signs. She helped us to understand what he had meant. He conversed with each of us and also gave some insight into food habits. He also gave some information about eyesight and we heard him with utmost respect. The moment was very special and we received all the information with utmost respect.

My Uncle had written a Jiva Charithram which was well received by a lot of good minded people and the same is also referred and uploaded in one of the Vallalar dedicated sites.

“Arul Perum Jyoti , Arul Perum Jyoti, Tani Perum Karunai, Arul Perum Jyoti.”

Travelogue TN: Day 3 - Nagore Andavar

Nagore Andavar

Nagore Dargah along with the Ajmer Dargah, are the two most famous of Muslim saint Samadhis in India. Probably apart from the Mecca Madina Hajj which Muslims consider the holiest in their life, these are the two places in South Asia which probably most of the faithful want to come and have their prayers done.

It helped that the shrine was on the way from Nagapattinam to Chidambaram and accordingly we had planned for the same. The main road at the shrine is so congested that we had to get down there and walk back by which time the vehicles would get parked some where else.

Until we got out of the vehicles and started walking towards the shrine, my father did not know that we were going to Nagore. He in fact asked me where were we? He also remarked that it would have been nice if we had visited Nagore since it was reputed to be in this route. Naturally he was so excited when I said we are in front of the ‘Andavar’ himself, that he started walking briskly towards the dargah and started to explain the greatness of this shrine.

While we entered the inside, two persons wearing their topies came to us and said. “Welcome, you may wash your feet in the pipes over there (on the sides) and please do come in after this”. With our Prasadams on our fore heads and the ladies not looking like any typical ones entering in a dargah, they would have identified us straight away as some one not used to frequenting the place. However I understand that the dargah is used to visits by all kind of religious people at all times. We could see a variety of people quite different in looks and cultural dressing that we understood that we are only one among the varieties of cultures visiting the holy place.

Soon after we were taken in to the abode amid a frantic chaos of men, women and children of all ages. Only men were allowed to go inside the shrine of his resting place. Ladies were able to see this from outside. Inside we were made to sit aside for some time. But however for the first visit, this was a good guidance. Then we had a chance to go inside and pay our respects to the great saint that he is.

The dargah had a lot of other resting bodies covered as well. One of the other frequented ones were his sons’ near the entrance door itself. We also got to know that a great festival was about to start the next day at the dargah. What a time to visit when the festivities were just about to start.

The great person – The ‘Andavar’ as he is referred to by many knowledgeable men across the spectrum, holds a very important and pre eminent position among the saints of India. The question about religion does not arise here. Sadly a lot of references now a day talk about the so called ‘secular’ aspects and all things, which is so very inferior to the spiritual position and the respect he commands among the Jnanis. As is often described, howsoever a Jnani appears or does not appear in the public eye, only to those whom he himself approves, does he reveal himself – And what a revelation it turns out to be…….!!!! – ‘Anirvachaniyam, Avachaniyam, Anandam’

One of the books written by my uncle describes his glory and is available in Malayalam.

Quite filled with emotion and a unique sense of peace, we proceeded to Chidambaram to have the night stay.

Travelogue TN: Day 3 - Nagapattinam

Afternoon

We were still on our way to Nagapattinam and had to cross Tiruvarur again. We ate our lunch by around 2.00 pm. I was checking with our Saradhis about the temple distances which we had to cover now. Also most of the temples open only around 4.00 pm. For the next set of plans the longest distance we needed to go was to Ettu Kudi Murugan. But the travel time would be only around 30 - 45 min. Still they said better to move on rather than stay in the middle especially when the summer is on.

And what a guidance it turned out to be....

Ettukudi Murugan

This temple was put in the plan upon direction from my uncle Sri Ramachandran Nair.

We reached there around 2.55 pm. When enquired about the opening of the temple for evening pujas, the road side coconut vendors informed us that the Archaka had just gone in. He would open the temple then!!!!!!!! I went to the temple entrance. There the Archaka was standing with a bunch of keys in one of the sanctum and calling out to us - "Vaango" – “Please come in. I am opening it!!!!!!!. “

There was a pond right in front of the main Gopuram. We dipped our legs and went into the temple. Since some of the children were sleeping in the vehicle, not all of us in our group could have the darsanam.

Two very important details about the temple need to be mentioned now.
        1. This is the Samadhi place of Valmiki Sidhhar . He is one of the 18 Maha Siddhars who had lived in Tamil Nadu. The Samadhi is under a tree and on the other side a Ganapathi Vigraham is also kept. The Sthanam was properly marked for people to find out.
        2. The second is the more famous story of Lord Muruka's three temples - Poravachery, Ettukudi and EnKann.

The three temples are connected by a very touching episode of a great Upasaka of Muruka.

He is said to have done a beautiful vigraham of Muruka sitting on his peacock, having six heads and both Devis on sides. This was consecrated at Poravachery. The King - Serfoji seeing the beauty of the Muruka Vigraham ordered one of his fingers to be chopped off (probably one from each hand) so that he would not make another one like this. However, with 8 fingers he made another and almost exactly similar to the one which was consecrated at Ettukudi. The idol was also from the same huge stone which he had originally identified. As providence would have it, the King again was in the know how of the things and decided to take his eyes off which would not let him make another idol. The great Upaska as he was, he with the help of his daughter made the third of the idols and in an exact replica. The same was consecrated at Enkann. While the consecration happened at Enkann, Lord Muruka is set to have appeared and restored his fingers and eye sight.

Another deviation in the story comes at Ettukudi - The sculptor was said to have finished the idol and kept it covered for doing the remaining work for the next day. While he was coming into the room where this was kept he could hear sounds of ankle bells and happy sounds from the peacock. He ran into the room and found that the peacock was flying and seeing the same lost his eyes. He cried 'Etti Pidi' 'Catch it' to the soldiers there and they came in trying to however by the time it had returned into the idol again.

Either way the three temples are a marvel where these idols are kept.

Kivalur - Kizh Velur - Akshayalingeshwarar

Diskhitar’s famous composition – ‘Akshaya Linga Vibho’ in Sankarabharana Ragam is based on this equally famous temple. There is an interesting story behind this krithi.

Once Dikshitar, with his ‘parivaaram’ visited the temple. It so happened that the time was delayed and the Archakas were closing the temple. Seeing this Dikshitar requested them to keep the temple open for some more time as he had composed a krithi and wanted to do the ‘samarpanam’ to the lord there.

The Archakas took a rather offending stance to this and said that the lord was not going to go away from there so he may very well come the next day and do the rendering. Unmindful of the sarcasm by the Archakas, Dikshitar decided to do the rendering of his compositions outside the door as he had come prepared for the same and was in a blissful state. By this time a small crowd had come in front of the temple as Dikshitar had come to the temple. No soon as he had had finished the full rendering of the now famous krithi as mentioned before, the temple doors were opened by itself and the Lord was seen in the full glory of all the lit lamps and accompanied with sounding of temple bells and ‘shankha naadam’. Another unique anecdote in this is that the krithi did not have any reference to him not being able to see the Lord or the fact of closing of gates by the Archakas. Seeing this miracle unfolding in front of them, the Archakas were frightened and is known to have asked for forgiveness to Sri Dikshtar.

Such being the history of the temple, we did not know what to expect when we went inside but for the ever benevolent grace of the Lord himself.

As it turned out, we had reached the temple around 3.45 itself and was not expecting the gates to be opened in spite of the experience just before. The inner sanctum was on a flight of steps and was closed due to the timings. While we stood there, there came a person with the keys and …. opened the main sanctum for us to see the Lord!!!. The ‘Kripa’ shown to us by The Lord is not explainable in words. Filled with the ‘Amrutha Paanam’ of the darsanam we slowly came down the steps and did the Pradakshinam inside the temple. We understood that the person who had opened the door was not the Archaka and he had closed it by now until it is opened later at the pre-decided time.

Physical exhaustion due to heat and travel was being definitely offset by the turn out of events in the afternoon. Nagapattinam, district is definitely a part of the famous Central TamilNadu were the old age traditional Muruka, Siva and Devi worship is continuing in full zest. We were deeply in the Muruka region as I had remarked to my fellow passengers. We also understood that the sacred place of Velankanni was definitely within reach but due to a combination of factors we could not plan it in this trip.

Sikkal Singaravelan

Sikkal is famous for the Muruka Vigraham here and is known as the ‘Singaravelan’. The story is that it is at this place where the Shakti – ‘Vel’ got attached to him and was done before the Sura Samhara. Venkitesh Sir of Kalady has opined that this is definitely a place of live presence of Lord Muruka. The Muruka Vigraham was seen on the right side of the main darsanam for the lord there. Dikshitar had composed the song Sringara Sakthyayudha based on the Muruka here.

The main deity at Sikkal is Navaneetheswarar. The story – kovil varalaar - is that, Valmiki Maharshi was doing Siva Pooja by making a Siva Lingam using ‘Vennai’ - Butter. He wanted to do Abhishekam with milk for which Kamadhenu herself came and did it. But once his poojas were over, the Siva Lingam could not be removed and the same got stuck there. Since this was originally of Butter, the name Navaneetheswarar.

All these temples were coming practically in a same line while coming back from Ettukudi and in the Nagapattinam to Nagore route.

Poravachery 

The first of the three Muruka shrines in the story which I had mentioned earlier is Poravachery. The temple is about 1 – 2 kms away from Sikkal and we had to enter through a bylane like in Sikkal.

When we reached there, we saw a Brahmin standing at the main Gopuram. I and my father had walked to the Gopuram first. As soon as he saw us, he invited us with a traditional “Vaango” (again) and was walking along with us inside. He said he is going to open the ‘Sannidhi’ and again we were left wondering about the divine plan which is taking us and inviting to these places. He turned out to be the Archaka and after he opened the main deity – Shiva Lingam, he came to the Murukan Sannidhi.

He explained in detail about the vigraham which was so lively, that we thought we were literally in Murukan Presence. The details of Muruka’s veins in hands, the nails in hands, the way in which he held his vahanam and his ayudhams, the details of mayil vahanam’s legs and the intricate details of veins in this and the way the snake was held by the mayil in its beak rather than under its legs – all were explained in general to all and in specific to us as well, when we requested for the same. He also had told that we need to also visit EnKann, which the Lord may grant us his confirmations to reach there soon.

Deeply filled with a sense of bliss we started from there and proceeded to Nagore.